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Read the science.

Hydroxy Acid Science

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are distinguished by molecular structure and solubility rather than by a single shared mechanism. AHAs are water-soluble and generally associated with surface-level keratolytic action; BHAs are lipid-soluble and associated with affinity for oil-congested areas; PHAs share a hydroxy-acid backbone but carry a larger molecular size, associated with slower penetration.

Molecular size, pH and concentration together — not any single figure in isolation — inform how a given hydroxy acid behaves in a formulation.

Enzyme Science

Proteolytic enzymes act on peptide bonds rather than on the acid-base chemistry that governs hydroxy acid exfoliation. This is understood to represent a mechanistically distinct route to surface desquamation, which is the basis for combining an enzymatic pathway alongside acid-based pathways rather than relying on either alone.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid with a comparatively large molecular size within the AHA family, a property generally associated with slower skin penetration relative to smaller AHA molecules such as glycolic acid. In Pumpkin Peel, mandelic acid is included at 5%, alongside lactic acid (1.5%) and glycolic acid (1%) within the AHA system.

Gluconolactone

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) with a larger molecular structure than most AHAs, a characteristic generally associated with slower penetration and humectant, water-binding behaviour. It is included in Pumpkin Peel at 6% as the formulation's PHA pathway.

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid, a solubility profile generally associated with affinity for sebaceous, oil-congested areas of the skin. It is included in Pumpkin Peel at a supporting concentration of 0.5% as the formulation's BHA pathway.

Urea & Humectancy

Urea and sorbitol are humectant agents generally understood to support water-binding within the skin's surface layers. In Pumpkin Peel they form part of the formulation's hydration system, alongside conditioning agents including Aloe Barbadensis, cucumber extract and rosehip seed extract.

Formulation Matters

A single acid at a single concentration is easy to describe but is only one variable among several that determine how a peel performs. Mechanism, molecular characteristics, concentration, pH, vehicle, exposure time, skin condition and application protocol interact with each other. Glo Blanc's position is that formulation design — how these variables are combined and supported — is the more complete unit of scientific consideration than any single ingredient percentage viewed in isolation.

Formulation > one hero ingredient.